My Sardinia

The necropolis of Anghelu Ruju is one of Sardinia’s famous attractions which is open to tourists daily from the months of April to October, and through the months of November to March. The necropolis of Anghelu Ruju is a pre-nuraghic cave complex of some forty hypogea. It lies about 10 kilometers outside of Alghero along the road to Porto Torres. The site was accidentally discovered in 1903 before being purchased by one of Sardinia’s most celebrated wine producers, Sella e Mosca.

The necropolis was the creation of the late Neolithic Ozieri culture that dates back to 2900 BC, and it was used and reused throughout the Copper Age (2900 - 1500 BC). The necropolis now stands in the midst of the vineyards of Cannonau grapes near the Fertilia airport where it can hear the roaring of the planes coming and going. Tombs can be found everywhere, and most of them are gouged out of the ground and can be accessed through low lintelled doorways, and these tombs are some of the best examples of what Sards call the “Domus de Jonas” which means Fairies’ or Witches’ houses. These tombs are scattered throughout the island and most of them are connected are connected by sloping passages. Most of the dead were embalmed in these tombs and mass burials were often a common thing. The dead were sometimes half cremated and even skinned before the burial.

The tombs are open to tourists and visitors, however there’s little for them to see because most of the rich and important content was taken to the museums of Cigliari and Sassari. However, one can find carvings and symbolic shapes, as well as bulls’ horns in tombs A, XXb, XXVIII and XXX. There are even carvings on the left wall of the atrium of the simple line which could represent a boat. Tourist and visitors are encouraged to bring a torch along with them if they want to see these magnificent symbols and carvings.

A diagram of the Anghelu Ruju site as well as copies of some of the artifacts can be found in Sella e Mosca’s Museo e Tenuta Vitivinicola less than a kilometer north of the Porto Torres road. Despite these artifacts, the main focus of the museum is wine making and tourist can take a guided tour of the museum from Monday to Saturday at 5:30pm during the months of June and mid October. Outside this time frame, guided tours can be made through appointment. Adding life and spectacle to the history of the vineyard and Vittorio Sella’s amazing black and white photographs. The vineyard also sells its own wine at its on site wine shop from mid June to September 8:30am to 8:00pm and from October to mid June 8:30am to 1:00pm and 3:00 to 6:30pm.

Water is prized in these areas, especially if it comes from mountain springs and is available on different parts of the island. The tap water is also drinkable and you can order it free of charge from any bars. Whenever you encounter a sign that says aqua non potabile it’s better to avoid drinking from that spot because it means that the water if unsafe for drinking.