My Sardinia

The remoteness of Costa Verde merges with a part of Sardinia’s past in Spiaggia della Piscina. Although it may be called Costa Verde’s other famous beach, its appeal is quite different from the rest. In fact, compare it with Spiaggia Scivu and head some 3.7 kilometers northeast, turn off along SS126 and then through the Ingurtosu exit, and you’ll see why. Here, a valley of deserted buildings greets travelers on the road to Spiaggia della Piscina.

The structures are the remnants of a mining settlement that thrived here in the 19th century. Today, they mark the traveler’s way on the nine kilometers of dirt track to the fork in the road that leads to Spiaggia della Piscina. Take the left branch of the fork and the beach is within about 20 minutes of driving through rough terrain. A designated parking will tell you that this is the spot.

Travelers can opt to park camper vans or stay in the chic Hotel Le Dune (www.leduneingurtosu.it), a repurposed part of the old mining building that served as the station for the railway system that used to bring harvested ore to the coast. It’s best to book ahead as the hotel has only 25 rooms to let. The hotel may be a bit pricey at 83 euros in the low season and 160 euros (as of this writing) in the high season for a half-board, per person, but it has nice facilities such as a small spa and water sports equipment for guests. There is also an all-you-can-eat buffet lunch for 30 euros per person.

The beach itself gets equal billing with another must-see on Spiaggia della Piscina. Back from the beach are 30 meter-high sand dunes, Sardinia’s “desert”. Two beach bars come alive during the summer, offering travelers loungers, umbrellas, and a shower.