My Sardinia

Visit the city of Sassari, specifically its northwestern gate, and it will be difficult not to take note of the silver dome of the Santa Maria di Betlem. The church is the city’s oldest and clearly its pride.

Though originally built as a simple Gothic structure, over the years the church has taken on many different architectural styles. Most prominent now are the heavy Baroque influences. However, the oldest features, specifically the Romanesque façade, are probably its best: Gothic and Arab styles can be found in the zigzag cornices, the rose windows, and the French Gothic columns.

The elements found in the Santa Maria di Betlem practically mirror landmarks in the history of architectural design. The lowest part of the church can be dated back to the 13th century, while the upper part, characterized by the rose windows, was an addition in 1465. Fifteenth-century Gothic vaults can still be found inside the church, but the interior is undeniably Baroque. The latter was an addition in the last century, particularly marked by the characteristic elliptical cupola.

When the church became the center of the Franciscan order in the city, lateral chapels were attached to the church and convent. The chapels are dedicated to local gremis (guilds) such as the wallmakers, carpenters, and tailors. The most intact and least renovated or altered is the Catalan-style muratori (stonemason) chapel, which is the first one on the left side.

The candeleri, or massive wooden candles meant to represent the different guilds, are stored here in their adjoining cloisters when not being paraded during the annual Sassari festival of Li Candareri. When taken out during the festival, they are adorned with ribbons and decorations.

Although the general vicinity of the church, the Piazza Sant’Antonio, is as busy as ever, it seeing a steady stream of traffic to and from Alghero and Fertilia airport, the church undeniably still holds sway over the city’s landscape.